Everyone seems to have an opinion about the southernmost point of the continental U.S. From “absolute paradise” to “too strange for words”, Key West engenders strong feelings and reactions in all who visit the little tropical island only 90 miles from Cuba. What do we think after spending a month right downtown in the center of the historic seaport?? It is certainly a place like no other! Downtown struck Susan as more touristy, crowded and noisy than she expected with Duval Street being New Orleans’ Bourbon Street adorned with palm trees and flip flops. Carolyn, on the other hand, enjoyed the hustle, bustle and extreme variety in everything (boats, dress, language, music, food and drink options, etc.). We agree that the less touristy/commercial and more residential areas of Key West are absolutely charming with their narrow streets and brightly colored, small, open-air businesses and quaint cottages… the ubiquitous motor scooters and free ranging chickens also very much in evidence, not so much!
Sojourner's Key West crew
For the first couple weeks, we were on our own to explore Key West by car and by dinghy. Then, on New Year’s Day, “Waltons” at Key West began when son Doug, his wife Sarah and grandsons Isaac (9) and Owen (4) joined us. While the parents luxuriated in the quiet of a small, quintessential Key West inn, Sojourner was treated to a week with two energetic additional crew. Each morning the new “swabbies” were awakened by the nearby Coast Guard station’s rather loud and slightly off key rendition of the “Star-Spangled Banner” and the bull elephant-sounding horn blast as the Yankee Freedom II ferry announced its daily departure for the Dry Tortugas. A surprisingly fierce wind (25+ knots) rocked the boat unmercifully during the kids’ second night aboard, and we grandmas briefly contemplated moving our young crew ashore. The next morning Owen inquired: “Who won?? The boat or the storm?” The many fish cavorting constantly around the boat fascinated the boys, and spotting the resident 4 ft. tarpon snuggling up to Sojourner sparked an unsuccessful effort to feed the local wildlife from the bow. Doug, Sarah and Isaac braved the unusually chilly water for a snorkeling trip while Owen accompanied us to the Butterfly Conservatory. Then, as the family departed for cold and snowy Chicago, our friend Maurie from Syracuse arrived. Maurie’s visit had an unexpected conclusion when a rare, seemingly wind-free weather window encouraged us to leave Key West several days early, and this courageous non-boater joined us for the two-day cruise back to Key Largo (more on that adventure later!).
We had great fun with many Key West tourist “must do/see” activities: sunning and people-watching on the beach; partying on Duval Street New Year’s Eve; cruising on a two-masted schooner; visiting various museums, famous people’s homes, the “southernmost point,” the Botanical Gardens (with its unusual collection of Cuban “Chugs”, the boats used by Cubans to flee their homeland), and a wonderfully decorated art deco movie theater with a life-size statue of Marilyn Monroe out front (a fitting place to see the movie “My Week with Marilyn” which we did with Maurie); as well as enjoying many (many) sunsets at Mallory Square. We also saw a great live, locally cast musical (“Forbidden Broadway”) and peeked into several private Key West residences during a two-evening, fund-raising home tour conducted by the local historic home restoration group. Good restaurants line both the historic seaport and Duval Street, and we tried as many of them as we could! We also ventured deep into the residential district for delightful and delicious experiences at a variety small and less touristy establishments. All-in-all, we enjoyed Key West, all the sights, the spirit, the ambiance … and tremendous seafood, delicious Cuban coffee, and panini and pastry to die for as well!
